12/11/2023 0 Comments Transplanting strawberry seedlingsSpace plants apart in three rows that also are 1 foot apart, with 3 feet between each set of three rows. Plant everbearing and day-neutral strawberries using the hill system. Remove or relocate runners that root in this pathway or within 5 inches of an established runner. Leave a pathway 1 1/2 feet wide between rows. These plants are allowed to produce runners to fill in the row. Plant June bearing plants in a matted row system. There are two systems used for strawberry culture: the matted row, used with June-bearing strawberries, and the hill system, used with everbearing or day neutral varieties. Many gardeners plant everbearing, day-neutral, and June-bearing types in order to extend harvest over the longest possible season. Recommended day-neutral varieties include Tribute, Tristar, Fern, and Mara Des Bois. Day-neutral varieties are similar to everbearers, but flower and fruit more consistently over the summer. Ogallala and Fort Laramie are recommended for Colorado because they are more hardy. Some of the more common everbearing varieties are Ogallala, Fort Laramie, and Ozark Beauty. If a late spring frost kills the first flowers, you will still get a crop in late summer or fall. For Colorado, everbearing strawberries are recommended for the home gardener because they tend to be very reliable producers. Wendy, Cabotand Blomidon.Įverbearing strawberries typically provide two maincrops each year, with small amounts of fruit produced between the main crop in June and a lighter crop in late summer or early fall. Recommended June bearers(one crop) for this area are Guardian, Kent, Honeoye, Redchief, Delite, Jewel, Mesabi, A.C. Inmost areas of Colorado, June-bearing varieties actually ripen in July. However, if their flowers are damaged by a late spring frost, they will produce a much-reduced crop or no crop at all. June-bearing varieties tend to produce the most flavorful, aromatic berries. There are three growth-types of strawberries: June bearing (flower buds form in the fall in response to short days), everbearing (flower buds form in response to long days in summer) and day-neutral(flower bud formation is not a response to day length but form over the entire season while actively growing). If using sprinklers, only water in the morning to allow fruit and leaves to dry out quickly. A dripor soaker hose is recommended to prevent the spread of root rotting pathogens. Water when the top few inches of soil are relatively dry to prevent root rot. Irrigate thoroughly at three to five-day intervals during the summer heat. Dry, hot weather causes more transpiration of water, up to 2″ per week. Producing juicy berries requires a relatively high moisture demand. Strawberry plant roots are in the top 10-12″ of soil. An application of chelated iron product in May and September at a rate of 0.1ounces per 100 ft. Foliar applications of iron can provide a short-term fix. Correct watering practices by reducing frequency and watering deeper. Chlorosis will produce interveinal yellowing of the leaves, with browning of edges in severe cases. Iron chlorosis can occur from overwatering our high alkaline soils and soils high in free lime (calcium). After fertilizing, irrigate immediately, rinse leaves and soak fertilizer into the ground or per directions on the fertilizer. In September, apply a second application of 1 pound of nitrogen that will help with next year’s bud formation. Generally, other nutrients are not needed unless indicated in a soil test. of 21-0-0 or similar organic fertilizer (1/2to 34 pounds of actual nitrogen) per 100feet of row or ideally apply what a soil test recommends for your soils and strawberry plants. Plant in raised beds if your soil is heavy clay. Strawberries need full sun and a loose, moderately fertile soil. After removing the sod, wait a year before planting strawberries because the grub population will decline. Because there are fewer strawberry roots, a sizable grub population may cause severe damage. When strawberries are planted after sod, grubs, which have been feeding undetected on the sod roots, divert their attention to the strawberry roots. To reduce risk of soil borne diseases, do not plant where strawberries, raspberries, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, potatoes, vine crops (squash, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers), fruit trees, maple and ash trees have been in the last 4 years. Avoid hot sites because a strawberry planting will remain in the same location for multiple years, locate them in an area that does not interfere with the annual garden cultivation. Strawberries require at least eight hours of full sun each day of the growing season to produce at their maximum capability.
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